July 2003 - Catalina 27 - Teak Backing Blocks for Stanchions
Cast in place using DynaGlass to create a flat mountng surface
(see the page from March 2003 for info on the casting method)
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Above: The finished installation
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Above: another view of the finished installation.
Note the thin layer of DynaGlass above and to the side of the teak.
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Above: The teak blocks were approximately 3"
x 2". The holes for the 1/4" machine screws are counter sunk.
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| I made six square teak backers. For the bow pulpit, I made round teak backers without counter sinks. I haven't done the stern pulpit yet. |
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| Above: cutting the lip off the liner. I used a RotoZip with a ceramic cutting wheel to make the cuts. I made epoxy fillets for the bolt holes in the deck and liner. I used DynaGlass to cast a flush mounting surface between the underside of the deck & liner. The casting method is described in the page from a year ago, when I installed metal backers (which functioned just fine but looked ugly) |
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| Another view of the underside of the cut liner. The gray area is the thick edge of the liner, which provides some structural strength. I left about 3/8" thick of this extending downward past the underside of the deck. That left the surface of the deck 3/8" higher than the surface of the liner. The 3/8" was filled in with Dynaglass, creating a perfectly flat surface for the backing block. To create the flat surface, I used the same casting method I employed when I initially installed metal backing plates. |